The paved way - called Via Strata - along
the high terrace of land north of the Thames
ninety five feet above sea level, became
the High Street, Notting Hill. And earlier than
the Romans, this road cutting through densely
wooded land had been an ancient trackway
chief route of the Celtic Trinobantes
crossing the whole country to Colchester
their capital. From Notting and Campden Hills
a beacon would have been visible to someone
on rising ground near Egham, south of the river.
A few yards north is now Ladbroke Square.
I like to think that one of the coverts, the brakes
of 'game, red and fallow deer, wild boars and bulls'
of Middlesex Forest, described by William Fitz-stephen
in eleven seventy, and Knotting Wood, between Shepherd's
Bush and the Gate, a dangerous stretch of road
for travellers, where William Lovell robbed
Thomas de Holland's cart, but later, in thirteen
sixty one or two, was pardoned by the King
of 'this and other outlawries, for good service
in the Wars of France, was here exactly.
The sole Roman relic in Kensington parish -
a trough of broken masonry, which might be
the sarcophagus of a coffin burial -
was unearthed while digging the foundations
through stiff yellow clay baked into bricks
for the first houses built around the clearing
to become the square. The same site yielded
some blackened pipes and stone cannon balls
left centuries later, perhaps from an ambush
of troops who hid in the scrubby undergrowth
during the Parliamentary struggles.
Now fast-forward to the nineteenth century:
too many names to mention - investors desperate
to choose the right partner, the right moment
to start construction. But booms and busts
ruined most, and what was planned as 'a whole
estate of gentlemen's residences' became
'a graveyard of buried hopes'. The Building News
in April eighteen sixty one could still describe
the slimy carcases of roofless buildings
fractured walls, crumbling masonry
and empty windows like black staring eyes.
By nineteen ten it all seemed fine: lawyers
East India merchants and baronet's widows
owned the houses, and Ladbroke 'upheld the proper
dignity of the English middle classes'.
But even before the second world war the district
was in decline. First every floor, then every
room, had different tenants. Discordant curtains
peeling facades, broken railings. A few
decades later, another change - the dialectic
of development. The houses glisten with
new paint and fittings. The rich are back again.